Shortly after Christmas, the time had finally come. We escaped the European winter and set off towards South Africa after far too long. We headed to Johannesburg and from there to the Panorama Route, the Kruger National Park, back to Johannesburg, further to Cape Town, along the Garden Route, and back to the Mother City. In the following report, I would like to give you a glimpse and inspiration for your next South Africa trip.
Johannesburg – Panorama Route – Kruger National Park
Shortly after landing in Johannesburg, we headed to our hotel in Sandton by rental car. Upon arrival, we took a city tour with our guide. He led us to the most important places in the city, provided us with great insights, and shared a lot of interesting information. In Soweto, the largest township in Africa, we could experience the stark contrast between rich and poor in South Africa up close for the first time.
After a night in Johannesburg, we set off towards the Panorama Route after a very delicious breakfast. The journey there was quite something. The roads in this region are generally well-built, but one must constantly be wary of potholes. Since we were traveling in the middle of the rainy season, the weather was accordingly – wet, grey, foggy. Taking the vegetation into account, we sometimes felt like we were in the Black Forest.
We chose the small town of Graskop as the starting point for our explorations along the Panorama Route. The weather didn’t improve the next morning either. Therefore, as our first stop, we headed towards Bourke’s Luck Potholes and Blyde River Canyon – and we were not disappointed. The landscape of the third-largest canyon in the world is incredibly impressive. We were able to experience the seemingly endless expanse, massive rock formations, and the fabulous breadth of the canyon vividly at the upper viewpoint. Many different viewpoints invite you to take unforgettable photos or simply let nature take its course.
We were also able to marvel at another highlight. The 80-meter-high Berlin Falls waterfall. At some point, we didn’t even know if we were wet from the waterfall or from the rain itself.
Our next stop was at the Kruger National Park, more precisely in the private Guernsey Reserve. We had already booked a lodge and various game drives here before our trip. The journey there was already the first small adventure. Since we were on-site during the rainy season, we drove on sandy roads dotted with potholes. Some were completely washed away on the sides. But that didn’t stop us, and after a while of cautious driving, we arrived at our beautiful lodge. In the afternoon, we set off immediately. With our guide Jacob, we went on an exploration drive through the reserve. Besides giraffes, we saw plenty of zebras, impalas, and some wildebeests. During a sundowner, we could admire the vast landscape of the area.
The next day, we went to two more private reserves. Probably everyone wishes to see the Big 5 (lion, leopard, elephant, rhinoceros, buffalo) on a safari. We were no different, of course. Already in the morning, shortly after the entrance gate, there was a stately rhinoceros. Unfortunately, that was the only rhinoceros we saw. But that doesn’t diminish the experience in any way.
Our pulse also quickened when our guides pointed out lion tracks to us. Since the tracks were fresh, they tried to follow them and locate the lioness. We stopped repeatedly, the path was examined, the jeep was turned, and we continued. The game drive turned into a real challenge, and in the end, we were rewarded with the sighting. Well hidden in the shade of the trees and amidst tall grass, the lioness lay, recovering from her last hunt.
But the highlights continued. We saw a lot of elephants in all possible age groups, proud giraffes, springboks, and then suddenly, out of nowhere, a cheetah lay beside us on the roadside. You can clearly see in the photo that the cheetah wears a GPS tracker. This is not to regularly drive guests to the animal but for its own protection. Some time ago, a cheetah went missing, and since then, there have been a handful of rangers who have access to its location and can take care of it accordingly.
A day later, we entered the actual Kruger National Park. After our guide completed the paperwork, we were ready to go. If you’ve been paying attention up to this point, you know that we still miss two animal species for the Big 5 – buffalo and leopard. But first, we were able to observe hyenas with their offspring feasting. Many don’t find the animals incredibly exciting, but I find them simply super fascinating.
During our drive through the park, we realized how vast the area is, and it’s no surprise that we sometimes drive long distances without spotting any animals. It is an area comparable in size to Wales in the United Kingdom, the US state of New Jersey, or Slovenia.
After a little refreshment provided by our accommodation, we got back into the jeep and continued. Our guide provided us with a lot of information about the park itself and its flora and fauna. We often stopped, exchanged information with other drivers about where they had already spotted which animals. Since it wasn’t as hot today and sometimes rainy, we should have good chances to see many animals. And the longer the day lasted, the more animals we saw.
Suddenly, our guide was in a frenzy – a leopard had been spotted. It takes a lot of luck to see these extremely shy and usually nocturnal predators. Would we really have that luck? Indeed! After a rather long drive, we caught a glimpse of this majestic animal. Well hidden and camouflaged in the bushes. Wow, what a great feeling.
The herds of elephants we saw afterwards almost felt like old acquaintances. Watching the babies frolic and play could also fill an entire day. Now we only lack 1 animal for the Big 5, but luck was on our side, and we were also able to observe buffaloes. Thus, we had actually managed to see the complete Big 5.
At the end of our stay, the next morning, we went on a bush walk. So, no more sitting comfortably and safely in the car, but walking in nature and eye to eye with wild animals. Don’t worry, such hikes take place only in safe areas, where the guides are very familiar with and know how to behave in case of contact with the animals. But even getting close to springboks and zebras is worth an experience. The buffaloes also stood relatively close to us at once – a bit too close for our guide Jacob, who calmly but firmly urged us to continue walking briskly.
So far, I had deliberately skipped the area around the Kruger National Park on my trips to South Africa. The chance of good animal sightings in such a large national park seemed too low to me. Nevertheless, I don’t regret that we visited this part of the country this time. The nature alone offers so much variety and is just another proof of the endless diversity of this country.
Cape Town – Part 1
After a week of pure nature, it was time to continue to the Mother City – Cape Town. Since both of us have lived here for some time, it has become a second home, and it feels like coming home. The streets are familiar to us, we know which areas we like and which ones to avoid. So, it’s no surprise that we chose our accommodation in Blouberg. Here, you’re right by the sea, there are great restaurants, and the view of Table Mountain from here is uniquely beautiful.
One thing that shouldn’t be missed when visiting Cape Town is a stroll along the Waterfront. Of course, the area is very touristy, but over time, little things change or different music groups perform, so it’s always exciting to wander around here. Since the weather was excellent on this day and we had been considering a helicopter flight for some time, we couldn’t resist. So, within 30 minutes and after a thorough safety briefing, we were in a helicopter from Sport Helicopters and off we went. What an indescribable feeling. We started with a round over the port of Cape Town and then continued towards Sea Point and Green Point. From here, we had the typical postcard view – the sea in the foreground, the stadium behind it, and Table Mountain as the upper limit. We flew over Hout Bay and Kommetjie to the Cape of Good Hope. Apart from the rotor blades, everything is so calm and peaceful up here, tourists at the Cape are barely visible, and you get a completely new perspective. The return flight took us along Kalk Bay and the surfer’s paradise of Muizenberg. The colorful beach huts were only visible as small dots. The last stretch took us over the Winelands before we had solid ground under our feet again after nearly an hour.
Speaking of the Winelands – after a visit to the Alpaca Loom Farm, where we had coffee and watched the alpacas, we headed to Franschhoek. The Wine Tram runs to five different wine estates on various lines. Especially during peak season, it’s advisable to book in advance to secure a spot on your preferred line. On each route, you can visit as many wine estates as you like. The onward journey usually takes place once an hour. Of course, you can also spend more than an hour at the wine estates. While wine tastings are the focus, most wine estates offer much more – beautiful gardens, sometimes art exhibitions, and the offered cheese and charcuterie platters are a perfect complement to the wines.
Garden Route
For the rest of the journey, I will be traveling alone. After leaving Cape Town behind, I headed to Hermanus. The small town is mainly known for whale watching between August and November. But even outside the season, Hermanus has a lot to offer. The Cliff Path is perfect for walking and enjoying the view. You also frequently encounter Dassies (Rock Hyraxes) along the path.
However, my main destination on this day was Cape Agulhas. Here, at the southernmost point of the African continent, the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet. The rough weather has been the downfall of many ships in the past. You can see this for yourself on a walk along the coast. The lighthouse has probably witnessed many tragedies since 1849. Today, the still active lighthouse also serves as a museum, and you can climb up over 71 steps. But beware: These are not developed stairs but rather narrow passages and sometimes ladders. However, the view compensates for it in any case.
My next stop was Mossel Bay. Officially, the Garden Route starts here. Due to industrialization, the cityscape is not always so beautiful, and some tourists might even be deterred by it. But in my opinion, this is unjustified. Mossel Bay has its own charm, and with its restaurants right by the sea, quiet beaches, numerous hiking trails, caves, and its lighthouse, the town has something to offer for everyone.
After driving about 100 km further east on the N2, you reach Knysna. Every year in June/July, the Oyster Festival takes place here. But it’s not just oyster lovers who get their money’s worth. The event is rounded off with a wine festival, sports highlights, and many other attractions. Around the same time, the whale season also starts in Knysna, and with a bit of luck, they can even be seen from the shore. Knysna is worth a visit all year round. Various boat trips in the bay and to the Knysna Heads are popular activities.
I made a detour to Buffels Bay and enjoyed cooling off in the sea.
Before continuing, I visited the Knysna Elephant Park. This sanctuary takes care of abandoned elephants. The aim of the facility is to rehabilitate these animals and then place them in private reserves. Feeding the elephants allows you to get up close to them. Another highlight is certainly walking with the herd. It is always ensured that the elephants are never forced to do anything.
For the very brave, the next stop is also a must. The Bloukrans Bridge in the Tsitsikamma National Park offers bungee jumps from a height of 216 m. Personally, watching from a safe distance was definitely enough for me. The gorge is already very impressive on its own and once again shows us what nature is capable of.
A little less courage is needed for a walk to the suspension bridges in Storms River. Via stairs and sometimes steep sections in the forest, you reach the suspension bridges after about 2 km of walking. The longer of the two is 77 meters long. And yes, you definitely feel the vibrations when you want to get from one end to the other. But you will be rewarded with breathtaking views into the gorge. If you prefer to enjoy the view from the water, you can also do so on guided canoe tours.
Tsitsikamma NationalparkThe goal of my today’s stage was St. Francis. This small coastal town off the N2 is mainly known and popular among South Africans for its thatched houses. Thanks to the owners of my accommodation, I had the chance to get to know the town and its surroundings. During various walks, Dee and Richard showed me their favorite places and where the rich and famous live. If you’re looking for peace and relaxation, this town is just right. And for those who prefer a bit more adventure, there’s kitesurfing, surfing, or snorkeling.
Via the famous Route 62, I drove inland to Oudtshoorn. The small Karoo is scenically very impressive, and the view changes after almost every curve. I stayed here just outside the city center because I had booked a meerkat tour for sunrise the next morning. Yes, that’s right, you can meet the cute-looking animals in their natural habitat. But as cute as they may look, their habits and characteristics are sometimes the opposite: to establish hierarchy, they pee on each other, and food is not shared. Nevertheless, it’s a great experience to wait in a camping chair for sunrise until they come out of their burrows and start their day.
Meerkat TourAlong Route 62, I continued to Barrydale. A small sleepy town that has an incredible amount to offer. Besides great hosts Uwe and Carel at Sorgvry, there are numerous small restaurants, shops inviting you to browse and marvel, and of course, the obligatory souvenir shops. It’s definitely worth stopping here and letting yourself drift.
On the way to Swellendam, I felt like I was driving with my mouth open. The landscape is uniquely beautiful and impressive. Unfortunately, due to a large construction site, I couldn’t stop here to take photos. But I can really recommend the route to everyone! Alternatively, you can also drive over the Swartberg Pass. However, a 4×4 vehicle is required to handle the road conditions.
Swellendam, with its typical Cape Dutch buildings, invites you to stroll and visit numerous cafes. At the Drostdy Museum, visitors can learn all about life in South Africa in the past.
Cape Town – Part 2
The Garden Route is now behind me, and I’m heading back towards Cape Town. More precisely, to Muizenberg, the surfer hotspot. Here, you can spend hours on the beach watching the surfers do their tricks. Or you can make an appointment with one of the many surf schools and try it out yourself.
About an hour’s drive from Cape Town is the West Coast National Park. Personally, I visit here every time I come to South Africa. The landscape changes from rugged rocks to sand dunes to beautiful lagoons. In August and September, parts of the park turn into a vast carpet of flowers, attracting locals and tourists alike. Birdwatchers, in particular, will find plenty to see here. The park is home to about 250 different bird species, and many areas have specially constructed observation points.
A visit to Table Mountain is a must when in Cape Town. I always base my visit on the weather. If it’s clear in the morning with no clouds in sight, there’s a good chance of making it up the mountain with clear views before the so-called “tablecloth” obstructs the view. So, early in the morning, I set off for the cableway station. Even though I left before 7 a.m., I got caught in rush hour traffic. Nevertheless, I arrived early enough and was able to take the second gondola of the day up to the top. I don’t think I’ll ever tire of the views you get on the way up and especially not from the top of the mountain. I can drift away for hours, letting my gaze wander and occasionally engaging in brief conversations with other visitors or rangers.
Another highlight is the Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden, which is also part of the Table Mountain National Park. It nestles against the eastern slopes of Table Mountain and is home to countless animal and plant species across over 600 hectares of land. You can wander along various hiking trails and enjoy the beauty of nature. Changing exhibitions and the famous Kirstenbosch Summer Concerts are just two of the annual highlights.
Sunrises usually have something magical about them. So, I set off very early for the Cape of Good Hope to be there on time for the park opening at 6 a.m. And I didn’t regret it. Not many had the same idea, so I was almost alone. It was a somewhat strange feeling at times, but I also enjoyed it very much. Since it was also extremely foggy and cloudy that day, the rising sun created a very special spectacle. Especially on the way to the lighthouse, I couldn’t take enough photos to capture the unique atmosphere.
To conclude my stay, I opted for a township tour. There is always a controversial discussion about to what extent well-off tourists should look at the poverty of the country. For my part, I think it’s important and right because it’s a significant part of South African culture, and many issues become clearer and more understandable at once. However, it’s essential to ensure that the tours are conducted with the necessary respect and consideration. In my opinion, our guide, Jo Weber, has a good sense for that. First, we drove to District 6. The area that was flattened during apartheid, and over 60,000 people were relocated overnight. Today, efforts are being made by the government and the population to create affordable housing again, primarily for the victims of the displacements or their descendants.
After that, we continued to Langa, one of the largest townships in South Africa. Here, we had the opportunity to attend a church service and visit the community center. Afterwards, Odwa, one of the residents, guided us through Langa and provided us with a lot of interesting information about life in the township, past and present. This was a very impressive experience. With all the insights and impressions, it’s essential never to forget that this is also the home of many people, and we should behave accordingly.
So, those were the five weeks in South Africa. Once again, I was able to enjoy this country to the fullest, discover new places, visit old favorites, and meet friends. Not to mention the many new acquaintances that were made. South Africa will always have a special place in my heart. I look forward to being able to share this love and passion, with many ideas, suggestions, and insider tips.
If you would like to know more about a specific place from the report or have your own trip tailored, please feel free to contact me. I am excited to be able to create your dream trip together with you.
